Category Archives: Roman occupation of France

July 8, 2011 · 9:36 am

The Village of Saint Paul de Vence is an Artists’ Enclave in the French Riviera

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Saint-Paul de Vence is a village in southeastern France. It is one of the most beautiful villages in Provence. Saint-Paul was founded in the 9th century which makes it one of the oldest medieval towns in the French Riviera.

Statue: St. Paul de Vence

The exceptional light and quality of life has inspired famous artists, painters, writers and poets. There are many charming shops and art galleries selling unique items in this lovely town.

This is a golden Vino con Vista opportunity. Stop at one of the cafes for lunch and have some French Wine with your “Plat du Jour”.

Marc Chagall lived in Saint-Paul from 1966 to 1985. You can visit the artist’s grave in the cemetary. Saint-Paul has always promoted art and creativity. Some of the other well known artists who flocked to Saint-Paul include: Matisse, Soutine, Renoir, Miró, Signac and Modigliani. The galleries and shops are filled with artistic displays and inspired merchandise.

The community of artists have sponsored well-known modern and contemporary art museums and galleries including Fondation Maeght, a museum dedicated to 20th century modern and contemporary art. The Foundation is situated in a garden decorated with outdoor sculptures and exhibits works of Joan Miro and Alberto Giacometti. In July 1964, the Fondation Maeght was inaugurated by André Malraux. It was the joint creation of Aimé and Marguerite Maeght. http://www.fondation-maeght.com/

Scrutinize the village map as you enter the town through the Vence Gate (Porte de Vence). Pay attention to the “Historic Monument” markers as you stroll within the ramparts and meander through the charming maze of streets http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1-JDtj6iHA&feature=fvsr.

The love the Provencal style Grande fountain on Rue Grande. Rue Grande is a former Roman Road. The fountain was built by Martin Melchior, a stonemason in the village. It is one of the most famous fountains in France and it has inspired many painters and photographers.

Fountain in St. Paul de Vence

The Collegial Church of the Conversion of St. Paul was erected in the 12th century in early Gothic style and is dominated by its square bell-tower that was reconstructed in 1740. The church occupies the highest point of the village. It houses some treasures including twelfth century gold pieces, reliquaries and a scroll signed by King Henry III. It also contains the relics of St. Clement. The church was originally designed in the style of a basilica, with a semi-circular apse and a single nave. The chevet and the arched beams in the main nave date from the beginning of the 14th century.

Collegiale Church in St. Paul de Vence

The entrance leads to four chapels: St. Clement (a masterpiece of baroque art), St. Mathew, the Chapel of Mary of the Rosary and the Chapel of the Souls in Purgatory with an altar from 1677. The church’s treasures include precious items of silverware, reliquaries and a parchment dating from 1588. In the Chapel of Saint Clement, there is a beautiful painting of St-Catherine of Alexandria in a magnificent red cloak with her sword by Tintoretto.

This church has an extraordinary collection of paintings representing The stations of the Cross. These paintings depict the final hours (or Passion) of Jesus.

I was also impressed with the lovely light fixture that reminded me of Gaudi’s Altar of Christ ascending into Heaven in the Sagrada Familia Cathedral in Barcelona. I wonder if this was the inspiration for the altar in Barcelona?

Some of the other sacred churches are : (1) Saint-Michel (12th century) located within the cemetery; (2) Sainte-Claire Chapel (16th century) dedicated to the patron saint of Saint-Paul, standing opposite the entrance to the village; (3) Notre-Dame de la Gardette (also called Chapelle Saint-Georges) gets its name from a place that served as a refuge for the inhabitants during the Middle Ages; (4) The Chapel of Saint-Charles and Saint-Claude chapel (17th century); (5) the Chapelle des Pénitents with an amazing three-sided bell-tower, dating from the 17th century is located between the Place de l’Eglise and Rue Cassette. In front of the Chapelle Saint-Charles-Saint-Claude there is a painting by Marc Chagall “Le couple au-desssus de Saint-Paul” which depicts a couple embracing above the town with a bouquet of flowers. In front of the chapel Notre-Dame de la Gardette you will find another Marc Chagall painting “La Table devant le Village” with a table set in front of the town.

Marc Chagall "Table in front of the Village"

Marc Chagall "Couple above St. Paul"

St. Paul watches over the entrance of his Church

A Roman aqueduct can still be seen from the chapel circuit. Supported by brick and limestone arches, the aqueduct channelled water from natural springs to the mills and washhouses. Queen Jeanne, Countess of Provence, gave her permission for the community of Saint-Paul to use the water in 1349.

Dr. EveAnn Lovero writes Travel Guides @ www.vino-con-vista.com

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Spring has Sprung in Foodie Nation Chicago with Loire Valley Wines

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What a great day for the Loire Valley French Wine Tasting on the 33rd floor of W Hotel on Lake Shore Drive in Chicago. It was definitely a Vino con Vista opportunity with plenty of French wine and wine-makers. The central part of the Loire Valley between Sully-sur-Loire and Chalonnes-sur-Loire in France was added to the UNESCO World Heritage Site List in 2000.

The Loire is the longest river in France and it is characterized by elegant historic chateaux and 300 miles of distintive terroir that supports numerous vineyards along the river banks. This region is the leading producer of white French wines. The region is cloaked with lovely vineyards and microclimates that produce distinctive varietals and wine styles. It is one of the most diverse wine regions in France with 69 appelations that include red, white, elegant sparkling wines and refreshing rose wines. There are distinct climates and a variety of soil types that divide the Loire Valley into 5 distinct regions.

The first vines were probably planted during Roman occupation 2000 years ago. Afterwards, the Augustinian and Benedictine Brothers enhanced the wine-making practices in this region.

I tasted some interesting Rose wines and plenty of earthy 100% Cabernet Franc. Cabernet Franc is one of the world’s major red grape varieties and was introduced to the region in the 11th century. It is frequently blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to produce a Bordeaux style wine. In the Loire region, it is not blended with other grapes so it is lighter in color than Bordeaux blends. It is used in the development of Chinon and certain roses in the Touraine appelation.

Today I spoke to Philippe Porche, a charming wine-maker from the Saumur-Champigny region in Parnay located on the south bank of the Loire River decreed an AOC in 1957. Cabernet Franc is the predominant grape in the area. He and his viticulturist wife founded the estate in 2005 and produce some interesting Cabernet Franc wines. I favored the garnet-colored full-bodied and velvety ”Le Fou du Roi” that was aged in oak. This lovely couple is looking for an importer @ www.domainederocheville.fr. Feel free to contact them if you are interested in importing luscious wines from this region. Tell them that Vino con Vista sent you.

There is a breathtaking view of Lake Michigan, Navy Pier and Chicago’s Landmark high rises from the former “Pinnacle Room” of the hotel where I spent my Senior Prom. Chicago Illinois It’s always exciting to re-live your youth.

It was such a beautiful spring day that I decided to stroll down Ontario Street heading westbound after the wine-tasting. I longingly gazed at the wide array of restaurants on Ontario Street that I patronize. They run the gamut from divine to sublime. Here’s a sampling of my “Chicago Foodie Nation” favorites:

Les Nomades is an outstanding French Restaurant that offers a Prix Fixe menu of four courses for $115 in a swanky turn-of-the-century brownstones mansion on Ontario Street. It is the perfect place to enjoy French cuisine after a Loire Valley wine-tasting event at the W Hotel down the street.

Another one of my favorites is the Capital Grille Steakhouse where I can’t stop eating the crunchy potato chips at the bar. I love the grilled salmon served over a bed of veggies with a side of creamed spinach. They have an extensive wine list and have won numerous awards for their outstanding burgers!

Across the street from the Capital Grille, I enjoy dining on the outdoor patio of the Coco Pazzo Cafe when the weather is nice. They have an outstanding lunch menu and recently won an award from the Italian government for their “Authentic” Italian cuisine. Quartino was another “Authentic” Italian-award winning restaurant. I took cooking lessons with the chef and he taught me to add some water from the pasta to my sauce–what a novel idea!! The Red Head Piano Bar is another one of my favorites night spots. They have great wine-tasintg events.

There are plenty of famous classic Chicago ”Steak-Houses” on Ontario. Lawry’s serves an incredible Prime Rib and I love the “Aged Filet Mignon” and mushrooms at David Burke’s Primehouse in the James Hotel. The Chicago Chop House has a wide array of delicious “sizzlin steaks.”

You will never be hungry or thirsty on Ontairo Street in Chicago. This city is a haven for Foodies!

Stop in at the the Hard Rock Cafe if you’re up for some live music. There are also some landmark fast food joints on Ontario including “Rock and Roll” McDonalds with a Rock and Roll Museum filled with memorabilia that my guitar-playing son adores.

Portillo’s has a great Italian Beef sandwich and classic Chicago hot dog and the drive-thru is always packed. Make sure you try the decadent chocolate cake . M Burger is another fast food option that people are raving about.